Wild Barley

Having arrived along the river and been faced with a wall of jungle, we were eager to explore. The trails around our lodge had given us a glimpse of the jungle world beyond but we wanted more, and the best way to do that in Tortuguero is by boat.

So it was back onto a small, narrow river boat. This time no plastic roof or sides, open to the sights and sounds of the rainforest. To start we headed back down the main river, clear sky above, overcast but light, not ominous. Either side the rainforest was that seemingly impenetrable wall of trees, leaves, branches and vines, with tall trees poking above the canopy. But this time we approached close to the bank, glimpsing the gaps and mosaic of openings beyond.

We passed Anhingas perched on submerged trees, wing outstretched to dry. Large, slender birds reminiscent of our cormorants back home, a long s-shaped neck that ended in a daggerlike bill. Parrots and parakeets flew overhead, their screeches announcing their passage. We followed eagerly with binoculars and watched a small flock settle at the tops of trees, squabbling amongst themselves for space. Overhead across the grey sky, Turkey Vulture’s soar on wings outstretches, ‘finger-tips’ catching the breeze. On the edge of the branches a huge Green Iguana balances, seemingly at home perched on among the leaves, wonderful orange spines running down its scaly back.

As we headed into one of the branches of the river, the water way narrowed and the trees on either side closed in. Water birds walked the edge of the river, picking their way past the tangle of branches and through grassy edges. Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Little Blue Heron, Green Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret. The boat slowed, creeping along slowly, quietly approaching the branches where a Boat-billed Heron perched staring back. Overhead, in the entwined branches a Green Ibis sat on a little knot of a nest silently watching us below.

As we puttered along the banks, scanning trees and sky, listening, watching, absorbing the sensations of the jungle, the driver slowed to a stop once more, edging closer into the bank, and our guide pointed up into the nook of a branch. A Sloth. Curled up, sleeping. A tear welled in my eyes. This creature fast asleep before me is an iconic mammal of the Costa Rican rainforest, one I had read about in a book with my little one. It brought her to me in that moment, connecting us, even though she was physically so many miles away.

The boat continued to meander deeper into the depths of the forest, twisting through ever smaller channels of water. The tree branches and leaves closed in to meet overhead, the sky disappeared, and above became a ceiling of green. Dark brown roots disappeared into the murky brown river below, snaking up and merging into the green leaves, vines, and epiphytes. Beyond it there is a glimpse of openings amongst the tangle of more vegetation, light filtering and making patterns on the leaves below.

Little birds flitted away, disappearing into the low green light of the trees. It took patience to catch sight of them long enough to identify. Finally one was more obliging, settling on a small limb of a tree, and remaining there as we crept closer. A beautiful Coppery Hermit. On the roots just above the waters surface a flicker of movement catches the eye, but it is not a bird this time, but small crabs. A ripple in the water reveals the head of a small turtle.

Suddenly above the sound of birds and insects comes a loud, deep, whooping roar, echoing through the trees and over the waterways. Howler Monkeys. Among the loudest of the New World Monkeys, their cries can carry 3 miles through the densest of rainforest. This time we did not see them but their calls send a tingle down the spine.

Closer to us there is a crashing through the trees above, leaves and fruit dropping to the forest floor leaving a trail like Hansel and Gretel. Sitting quietly in the boat we watched as a troop of Spider Monkeys passes by overhead, their wonderful prehensile tail giving them an extra limb as they make their way with ease through the canopy.

We soon head back out, re-emerging, blinking in the light, on the main river. Speeding back to the lodge, to dinner, darkness, and more adventures to come.